Station is just one of about half a dozen restaurants that have opened in the past year on Main Street between the University and the Downtown Mall. This area, formerly home to gas stations, towing lots and industrial suppliers has now been reinvigorated by the renovation of the historic Amtrak train station and several new places to dine out.
While some would doubt that a former gas station could be transformed into a chic restaurant, Station makes the most of its origins and adds flair to the antiquated building. The atmosphere is original and inviting, and the kitchen produces wonderful fare.
The dining experience begins with complimentary bread served with flavored olive oil, an upscale twist on traditional butter. Station buys the bread from its next-door neighbor, the Albemarle Baking Company. The bread is preservative-free, which means it is quite fresh and delicious but only stays fresh for about an hour after it's sliced.
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Station offers several unique combinations and dishes. It is difficult to label the menu's theme, but many dishes carry an Italian influence. This is certainly true with the antipasti, which range in price from $5 to $8.
The panzanella ($6) is a well-portioned starter. Listed as a "bread salad," it consists of a baguette cut up in a bowl with loads of fresh tomatoes, a few skimpy yellow pepper strips, black olives and red onion. The whole bowl is drenched in a light olive oil and lemon dressing. The downfall of the dish, however, is that the bread soaks up much of the dressing, which makes the bites of bread unpleasantly soggy. This appetizer would work better in the style of a more traditional bruschetta, with the flavorful topping placed while warm on the fresh bread at the last moment to keep it from becoming saturated.
An excellent starter is the calamari fritti ($8) with cold roasted red pepper sauce. Breaded and fried in a traditional manner, the appetizer does not allow the batter to overwhelm the calamari as similar dishes at many other restaurants mistakenly do. The meat is delicious, fresh and well-textured, but the red pepper sauce is the dish's greatest strength. Rather than a tomato-based sauce, Station serves calamari with a ground red pepper spread that is just spicy enough to add punch.
The night's special was the pan-seared grouper with green olive tapenade ($16). The dish was prepared well and the topping added some kick to the mild white fish. It was served with roasted new potatoes, which were slightly over-peppered along with string beans.
Although the server said the restaurant's most popular pasta is the fettucini with saffron cream sauce ($18), it is somewhat uninspiring. The vibrant yellow seafood dish includes shrimp and scallops along with the noodles. The pasta and seafood are both delicious but do not combine well with the ample squash, zucchini and carrot strips. All elements are fresh and taste very good, but the mixture may be too original. If you order this dish, be prepared for an unusual combination of ingredients.
The dessert selection is limited to three choices, but all are delicious and make the most of berry season. Strawberries and raspberries are served in a white wine reduction in a bowl with lemon sorbet. This is a lovely, cool dessert, which is perfect for summertime.
The upside-down stone fruit cake is ground densely to prevent rising. The cake is marbled with blueberries and peaches and served with vanilla ice cream.
A mocha cappuccino pudding is also offered. All desserts are $5.
Additionally, there is a full bar and a wine list ranging from $15 to $46 a bottle.
The menu changes very frequently as the kitchen tries to keep the offerings fresh and exciting. The chef follows what she describes as the "zen of cooking," and rotates the menu with each equinox or seasonal shift. This incorporates whatever fruits or vegetables are in season. Station's greatest strength may be the arrangement and aesthetic aspects of their servings. Every dish is generous and attractive.
Station specializes in pasta and seafood, though rice options are offered, along with pork and beef dishes. The restaurant's designers have done little to mask the building's former function, incorporating the gas station shell into the restaurant's internal architecture and giving it a hip sense of industrial chic. Patrons may dine indoors or outside. As the weather cools, the restaurant staff often open the large garage doors on either side of the building to provide the feel of outdoor dining.
Although expensive, Station is not exorbitant, and the restaurant offers an experience that is truly unique. It is a welcome addition to the newly thriving area of West Main Street.
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