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Taste Buds

Reviewers' note: This week, we visited Copacabana.

We understand that Copacabana shares its name with a popular Barry Manilow song. It's our solemn promise that we'll avoid any play-on-words and jokes about this coincidence in this review.

Are you in the mood for Brazilian cuisine? Well, hop aboard your choice of transportation and start heading down Route 29. Your destination: Copacabana.

Located at 400 Shoppers World, it's easy to miss this hidden treasure of Charlottesville. Hidden from view of the highway by the Whole Foods Market, Copacabana's surroundings unfortunately fail to do much to promote the feel of Brazil. Such is the case with most restaurants located within shopping centers.

Luckily, once inside, visitors are presented with a very elegant little restaurant. The atmosphere at Copacabana is semi-formal. There's no dress code, but anyone planning to wear sweatpants on their next visit needs to rethink their plans.

Regrettably, the only hints that we were within a Brazilian cuisine restaurant were the numerous pictures of popular Brazilian locales hanging on the walls. This isn't to say that the atmosphere at Copacabana is bad; on the contrary, it's very upscale. Nevertheless, our surroundings did little to fool us into thinking we were eating in Brazil.

But an atmosphere suffering from an identity crisis is a minor gripe and should not dissuade you from eating here. The rest of our dinner was superb.

First off, the service at Copacabana is top-notch. The wait staff is very professional and helpful. It took very little to convince us that Copacabana deserves the highest marks possible in service.

Our waitress was incredibly amicable. She made sure we knew what the day's specials were as well as suggesting other dishes. Diners unsure of what to choose should not hesitate in asking their server.

In addition, and very importantly, our drink glasses were always full. Our waitress was also very prompt in removing our used dishes, which is important since each new menu item comes with massive amounts of additional tableware and cutlery. Copacabana obviously hasn't been informed that Charlottesville is in the middle of a drought, but we forgave them.

While we only drank sodas during our visit, those wishing for something ritzier will be pleased to learn a large variety of wines are available. The back of the Copacabana menu contains an extensive wine list. Prices range from $12.95 for the Marcus James Chardonnay to $25.95 for the Mirassou Merlot.

To start our dinner, we sampled both the breaded baked camembert cheese with strawberry puree served with cocktail bread and the sauteed escargot with artichokes in brie cheese cream sauce (both $8.95) A word of warning is appropriate at this point: The rumors are true, they actually are snails.

Both appetizers were delectable, but the surprise winner was the strawberry sauce on the camembert cheese. We never knew that strawberries and cheese mixed so well together.

The appetizers served their purpose well. Once finished, we eagerly awaited the arrival of our actual dinners.

Dinner lived up to its expected billing. The paella Copacabana ($17.95) more closely resembles a small mountain of food than a meal for one. This dish is a crazy mixture of meats and vegetables, including mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, pork, peppers, onions and tomatoes, all served on a bed of saffron rice.

While most diners will have trouble finishing off this dish, the staff at Copacabana will gladly pack any remaining food for a take-home treat.

Another highly recommended choice is the veal medallions and shrimp ($16.95). Served with potatoes and vegetables, this is yet one more entry in Copacabana's apparent tradition of overly large dishes.

Just as with the paella Copacabana, no fault could be found with this selection either. From the just-tender-enough veal to the perfect amount of garlic adorning it, the veal medallions and shrimp will not disappoint. Other tempting menu options include the chicken breast & shrimp in spicy Brazilian sauce ($14.95) and the angel hair pasta with scallops ($14.95).

As if the actual meals weren't large enough, dinners come with a salad. Just large enough to whet your appetite while waiting for dinner, but not so big that it ruins your appetite, the salads were a welcome addition. You also can't go wrong with the dressing; both the house dressing and bleu cheese are excellent. We recommend the house dressing because it is unique, featuring avocado as its main flavor.

For diners with inhuman appetites, Copacabana offers a few desserts, such as their chocolate cake ($6.00). We doubt many people consider dessert after dinner, but it's there.

Unfortunately, all this delicious food will take its toll on your wallet. Almost all lunch menu items hover around the $10 mark, and many dinner dishes are above $15.

While some of these prices can buy two meals at other restaurants, we truly believe the food and service to be well worth the cost.

This weekend is Family Weekend, and you would be remiss in your duties as a student if you did not stick it to your parents for all they're worth. Copacabana offers the perfect opportunity to get a good meal that you might not otherwise be bold enough to try. As Manilow would say, Copacabana truly is "the hottest spot north of Havana."

Reviewers' note: We tried.

One final note: valuable information about Copacabana, including both lunch and dinner menus, is available at their Web site, www.CopacabanaRestaurant.com.

Food: ****

Service: *****

Atmosphere: ***

Location: **

Price: $$$$

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