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Despite its pricey menu and adult clientele, Carmello's offers flavorful Italian meals

It's been a rough year for hungry people in Charlottesville. First the Chiang House burned down, then Wild Wings died at the end of last semester, and now Harris Teeter is temporarily out of commission.

But we all still have to eat, right? Just look at the situation as an opportunity to try new things.

Carmello's is up to the challenge. Located across from University Hall and next to Panda Garden, Carmello's places upscale Italian fare within the geographical, if not financial, reach of most students.

Of course, the target customers of the restaurant are not college students. We didn't see a single student during our entire dinner, and we were there for quite some time -- but don't let that discourage you.

If you're just looking for something to eat with your friends, you're better off going next door. But if you're more interested in quality than quantity, then pull up a chair.

The outside of the restaurant is unremarkable, resembling something akin to a souped-up trailer; however, the inside is quite nice, if a little cozy. Newspaper articles, faintly illuminated by the dim lighting, hang on the walls, evidence of Carmello's award-winning food.

The caliber of our waiter shaped our initial impression of Carmello's.

Professionally trained, he was extremely familiar with the menu and, recognizing that we were ignorant college students, made excellent recommendations.

The breadbasket at our table always remained full, and the drink attendant was quick to refill our glasses.

Toward the end of the meal, service suffered as the dining room swelled with customers. Our waiter tried as hard as he could to serve everyone in a timely manner, but the understaffing made it impossible. The check came long after we had finished our dinner.

But Carmello's great menu overcomes this management snafu. It offers enough diversity to please a range of palates, but doesn't baffle diners with too many selections.

The appetizers we tried were delicious. The mushroom caps stuffed with crab meat ($9) were juicy and tasted great. There were only six of them, however -- a lot of money for not a lot of food.

We recommend the calamari fritti ($7.50), which offers a lot more food for less money, without sacrificing taste. These floured and fried calamari ringlets are definitely a better choice for larger parties.

Appetizers that we did not try but wanted to include are Frutti Di Mare ($11), a seafood combination platter in olive oil, lemon and garlic, and Cannelloni Alla Toscana ($8), pasta shells stuffed with veal and covered in cream sauce and mozzarella.

The main courses can be broken down into a few different groups, all of which offer good choices.

The pasta menu is understandably the largest menu, with about 10 dishes.

We tried the Lasagna Bolognese ($12), a medium-sized serving of lasagna sprinkled with fresh parmesan cheese. It was tasty, but ultimately not worth the price.

We also tried the Fettuccine Alfredo. It comes plain for $11.50 and with strips of chicken breast for $18. The chicken was extremely tender and the sauce pleasantly creamy.

But like the lasagna, the price was quite high, even if the quality was better than what you would get at a cheaper Italian restaurant.

Other pasta choices include Ravioli Fiorentini ($12), filled with cheese and served in a white cream sauce with spinach, and Tortellini Mama Stella ($13.50), filled with veal and smothered in a white cream sauce.

From the fish menu we tried the Scampi Gamberi ($21). Consisting of large shrimp saut

ed in butter, garlic, parsley, lemon and white wine, this fettuccine dish was quite delicious, if pricy.

We wanted to try the Linguini Pescatore ($25), but we simply didn't have the room. It sounds great: clams, mussels, calamari, scallops and baby shrimp in marinara sauce and served on linguini.

Our best-tasting entree came from the chicken menu, which features a number of other dishes we would like to try at some point.

The Petto Di Pollo Tirolese ($17) was by far the most flavorful of our choices. This dish consisted of chicken breast sauteed in white wine and topped with artichoke hearts, crabmeat stuffing, mozzarella and butter sauce.

The artichoke made a good dish a great dish. At $17, we think it was also the best deal because it was the one item that tasted fundamentally different from other menu options.

Carmello's also offers a veal menu and a huge wine list, but we regrettably didn't get a chance to try them. And if you're a total pig, you can also order dessert.

Carmello's menu is online at www.restaurantdiningmenus.com. A lot of the prices have not been updated in a while, so be prepared to pay a dollar or two more per item when you get there.

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