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Taste Buds

They can't all be the Bavarian Chef.We were forced to find that out at Rhett's River Grill and Raw Bar this week. We've been sampling a lot of international cuisine lately, so an American eatery seemed like a good idea. We should have picked a better one.

Located across from Wal-Mart on Route 29, Rhett's offers "Outer Banks charm with a Southern twist." In reality, the restaurant does not offer much charm and the twist is imperceptible. The food was mostly average and, in one case, terrible.

Rhett's atmosphere is boring. There's nothing interesting on the walls that doesn't look like it came out of a theme-restaurant catalog. Normally we give the benefit of the doubt to restaurants if they have average atmosphere and good food, but in Rhett's case the uninteresting interior matches the food selection.

The service is what we expected from a grill. Our waitress did a decent job of refreshing our drinks but sometimes there was too long of a gap in service.

The menu is a mixture of seafood dishes and Southern/Cajun choices. The food sounds pretty tasty, but in reality it's quite ordinary.

We tried three appetizers. The She-Crab Soup ($3 for small, $5 for large bowl) is touted as the chef's signature, but it wasn't worth the hype or even the $3 we paid for it. The flavor was unremarkable and the texture inconsistent.

The Select Oysters ($7) came tossed in blue cornmeal with smoked bacon and grilled corn salsa. While the appearance of the brown oysters on brown chips was pretty repulsive, the taste was actually quite nice. The saltiness of the bacon was a nice complement to the oysters.

For the Southern twist, we tried the Fried Green Tomatoes ($5). Topped with a garlic cayenne sauce, this dish was a treat to eat. The problem was that the tomato was very small and really wasn't worth $5.

Rhett's also offers a menu of raw and steamed oysters, tiger shrimp, and mussels. A dozen oysters on the half shell are $12, while a dozen tiger shrimp will set you back $16. A dozen mussels in garlic sambal cream sauce are the cheapest items on this part of the menu at $7 for a dozen.

The entrée choices were frustrating. We tried three dishes that turned out to be of radically differing quality.

The Oven Roasted Duck Breast with Red Wine-Wild Mushroom Reduction served with Creamy Potatoes and Grilled Asparagus ($16) was absolutely delicious. The duck meat was tender and juicy. The flavor was great and the side dishes were perfectly prepared.

This sort of dish was not what we were expecting out of a grill. It was a pleasant surprise and the highlight of the meal.

The Pan Seared Crab Cakes ($15) were not at all in the same league as the duck dish. Served with grilled asparagus in a roasted shallot saffron wine sauce over rice pilaf, these crab cakes were just average.

The flavor was dull and lifeless, while the rice pilaf was not good at all. This dish was not worth the $15 charged for it. We recommend you stay away from it.

Our third choice was by far the WORST entrée we have reviewed in the entire time we've been reviewing restaurants. The offender in question is the paella.

A combination of shrimp, squid, fish pieces, mussels and Andouille sausage in a roasted garlic risotto, this $16 atrocity single-handedly ruined an otherwise pleasant meal.

Where should we begin?

There are only so many synonyms for bland, so forgive us if we repeat ourselves. There was no discernible flavor from any of the ingredients except the sausage. The fish was of poor quality, the squid was weak and the mussels were unimpressive.

The shrimp was not fresh and didn't taste like shrimp should taste. The sausage was out of place and overpowered whatever remnants of taste could be gleaned from the rest of the dish. Finally, the rice had obviously soaked for far too long, an unpleasant aspect that made it the worst part of the dish.

The paella tasted like Chef Boyardee made it -- but Boyardee's probably wouldn't have cost $16. It was foul. Do not order it.

The menu also offers Fried Catfish ($12), Spinach and Cheese Ravioli ($11) and Pan-Seared Pork Tenderloin ($13).

Given the varied results of our other three decisions, we really can't predict which ones are good. When you order an entrée, you're really taking your life in your hands.

We couldn't leave with that paella taste in our mouths, so we ordered dessert. The Key Lime Pie with Raspberry Coulis ($4) was tangy and refreshing, while the Chocolate Torte with Fresh Berries ($4.50) was rich and delicious.

The overall dining experience at Rhett's was decidedly average. Since we had our hopes up at the prospect of some decent American food, we left disappointed. For a place that prides itself on being an Outer Banks transplant, Rhett's seafood was not very good at all.

Eating out shouldn't be like Russian roulette. The diner should have a good idea of what he or she is getting. If you're willing to take a chance on Rhett's menu it's possible that you could have a nice meal. We just don't think it's worth the risk.

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