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Give me a break

In one week, thousands of co-eds will flood Spring Break destinations like Panama City, Florida and Cancun to swig bad booze and "party with Real World celebrities," only to return to school with a few blurred photos, a Margaritaville shot glass and a re-mixed version of the same hangover they had before they left.

What exactly is Spring Break a break from? It's hard to say. American home comforts like 7/11 and Outback Steakhouse are now global fixtures, imported wholesale to major party places. Although such conveniences defeat the very purpose of leaving home -- not to mention the likelihood of an original experience -- the only real expectations held by many breakers are for big crowds, free refills and a flexible guest policy at the hotel.

Thankfully, there's much more than "rum-and-punch predictabilities" available to the strapped college student in the mood for some authenticity.For even less than your average package trip, you can have three miles of the white stuff practically to yourself, swim in a neon bay, dance with a dozen sting rays, zip line through monkey-infested canopy, hike a volcano, climb ancient ruins or surf a wicked left break. And when you get the itch for some action, an open party isn't far away. So break away from the Spring Break herd and find 20-something tranquility at one of these backdoor destinations.

Jaco Beach, Costa Rica

For those in search of more than a deserted beach and searing sun, Jaco is the answer. The steady beach breaks and tropical vibe found here (and at nearby Playa Hermosa) have attracted wayward surfers for years. While the beach itself is not outstandingly beautiful, if you'd like to learn to surf and then drown your frustrations with friends someplace lively afterwards, Jaco will accommodate both the inner beach bum and the party kid in you. To go local, have some arroz con pollo and linger in a café after retiring from the beach; if its home you miss, pizza parlors and pool halls are around the corner. For a cheap place to stay, I recommend Hotel Zabamar (tel: 643-3174), just off the beach. Those interested in surfing lessons should contact the Surfing Academy of Costa Rica (643-1948) or go solo and rent a board for $10 to $15 a day.

For a fuller trip, head down the coast to Manuel Antonio National Park, where the views of the Pacific from the lush hillsides are knock out. Explore the park by day, keeping an eye out for squirrel and white-faced monkeys, take a canopy tour with Canopy Safari (777-0100, cynics will miss out), or idle on one of the park's beaches over a juice-in-coconut. In the evening, head up to El Avion, a de-commissioned military cargo plane turned bar/restaurant and watch the sunset from a rocking chair before the music cranks up. Lodging can be pricey near the park -- it's best to spend the night in the nearby town of Quepos, an old banana port that is now a sport fishing mecca. Try Hotel Quepos (777-0274) which offers spartan rooms for under $15 and drink liquid gold at Café Milagro on the waterfront.

Go to www.americanairlines.com or www.ticotravel.com for air and 4x4 specials that allow you to fly into San Jose and then freely explore places like Arenal Volcano en route to coastal diversions. Check out www.frommers.com/destinations/costarica for more background.

Caye Caulker, Belize

When Madonna sang, "Last night I dreamt of San Pedro," it's a good thing she didn't mention Caye Caulker, the quiet island nearby that is glad to live in its shadow. While San Pedro (a.k.a. Ambergris Caye), the largest of Belize's 200 offshore islands, has become a raucous mini-resort, Caye Caulker is so laid back that it's damn near upside down. The main road that runs the length of the island is actually a strip of sand that can be walked end-to-end in 15 minutes, frequented only by sandaled feet and the occasional golf cart. Pastel colored guesthouses that cater to every budget sit along the water's edge, many with hammocks for dozing. Check into Tina's Bak-Pak Hostel (501-226-2351) for a basic dorm bed, or head to Tree Tops Guesthouse (501-226-0240) for clean comfort. Dining can be pricey on Caye Caulker. To save a buck, try the lobster omelet at Cindy's Café (Front St.) for breakfast; stop by Glenda's (Back St.) for home-cooked Creole specialties at lunch; and then check out the daily surf-and-turf specials posted at the many seaside grills.

By the main dock where you arrive, a sign reads: "Those who litter will be fed to the sharks." Although they are harmless, they number in the thousands at the massive Belize Barrier reef, just a couple of hundred yards away from Caye Caulker. It is the second largest in the world after Australia's Great Barrier Reef, and home to schools of reef sharks, sting rays and extravagant coral formations that can be seen

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