The Cavalier Daily
Serving the University Community Since 1890

Finger lickin' good

The claim to fame for Old Virginia Fried Chicken is more than just flavor. One University student, whose routine run-ning loop passes the restaurant's location at the intersection of JPA and Maury, said he is drawn by the smell. One father has made it a routine to stop by Old Virginia Fried Chicken after church for over 10 years and swears it's the best fried chicken in town. One couple said that Old Virginia Fried Chicken is not as spicy as many fast food versions but satisfies big eaters. One obvious difference is that unlike competitors, which offer multiple taste-preference options from spicy to buffalo versions, there is only one Virginian version.

Brian Hawkins, known as "Ernie," has been working at Old Virginia Fried Chicken for the past seven years and confessed that probably the only difference between the other versions and the local Charlottesville one is that, unlike corporate fast food chains, Old Virginia Fried Chicken hasn't changed much in the past 13 years.

"Busier people come and go," Hawkins said while preparing a 30-piece basket to go. The restaurant "hasn't changed that much -- not the basic product."

That's precisely what keeps people coming back. Kathy Roberts regularly waits behind the counter, addressing many customers by name in her sweet Southern accent.

Old Virginia Fried Chicken has been running for over 18 years, and it is a local favorite, according to Hawkins.

Darlene and Calvin Cummings are the current owners of the family-owned business where some of their five children now work.

Hawkins said that when the company was starting up, the owner brought in many of the customers personally.

"People came from knowing him," Hawkins said.

It is clear, however, that the restaurant now lures more than acquaintances.

Customers now come from all areas of Charlottesville and meet to eat great chicken and see familiar faces. Hawkins said he has seen in the restaurant an 80-year-old clergyman, medical students, local construction workers, mailmen, families and a couple dressed in leather riding stirrups, to name a few.

Old Fried Chicken offers a personal touch with which many fast food businesses can't compete. Last Wednesday, Darlene amiably boasted to a regular customer while holding a picture of her five children at the restaurant with a large order of fried chicken. They discussed their families and lives while the customer waited for her order.

Another employee, Will Quillon, said he enjoys working at Old Fried Virginia Chicken for the people.

"I've been here maybe six years," Quillon said with a deep Southern accent. "There's a lot of people who come in here who I know, and lot of the people I work with I know [well], too."

The famous smell has been known to carry its luring aroma down Jefferson Park Avenue tempting University students.

Three medical students who waited patiently in line on a Sunday afternoon are some of those individuals who said they couldn't resist. Robert Riley was one of them. When asked about the Virginia fried chicken, Riley stepped back with a smile, his hands in pocket, and expressed his satisfaction.

"The local grease can't compare to corporate conglomerates," he said.

Students have been known to routinely use the picnic tables outside during the summer, and the restaurant regularly caters for local churches, Hawkins said. Although all the food is packaged to go, most customers come to stay. They come to meet friends, see familiar faces and eat great one-of-a-kind Virginia fried chicken.

Tod Bowman, who works for the University's intramural sports program, comes for the great location and the great chilidogs. Bowman said he is convinced, "They're great!"

The most popular item, however, according to Hawkins, is the two-piece white. Although the restaurant is predominantly known for the common Southern fried chicken, Hawkins noted that Old Virginia Fried Chicken is "something different."

"Not many places you can get a large carrying order in a half hour," he said.

Everyone's orders are prepared to-go, and the menu is small but varied. In addition to fried chicken, the restaurant serves fried clams, a variety of sandwiches, potato salad, mashed potatoes, beans, French fries, hot coffee, soda and banana pudding.

Customers casually talked as they waited in line, commenting about the news coverage depicted on a small television in the corner atop a vending machine. He said he is convinced, however, that most people come for the taste.

Football games are the busiest time, according to Hawkins, so the restaurant eliminates other menu options on weekends because it has become a stable tailgate favorite.

Bowman also remarked on the popularity of the restaurant.

"It brings character to the community," he said. "You recognize people here, the personal touch. It's not fast food -- its better quality."

Bowman also mentioned the restaurant's "down-home feeling" of good Southern cooking.

"It's small, it's local and it's good food," he said. "It's been around forever!"

Riley agreed.

"Just fried chicken, ya know, crispy juicy, good"

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