Peering out the window, we could see the glimmering Mediterranean Sea, the small, white houses and larger skyscrapers in the distance. Though this city looked much like the Miami we'd left nine hours earlier, the hush on the plane communicated the difference we all felt. The quiet erupted into applause and excited chatter when the plane finally landed in Tel Aviv. At last: Israel.
Two weeks ago, 18 University students and I traveled to Israel with students from the University of Miami on the free "birthright israel" program offered by Hillel, the Foundation for Jewish Campus Life. My expectations of bonding with Jewish students and being introduced to the Holy Land were far exceeded in the 11 days that we spent in Israel. For those of you who haven't been there, let me give you a small taste of the land we were able to sample.
As we recovered from our long flight and prepared for Shabbat -- Judaism's day of rest -- in Jerusalem, we were able to take in the sights, sounds and tastes of the Jewish capital of the world. Hebrew floated down the streets accompanied by the tantalizing smells of Middle Eastern spices applied liberally to falafel and shwarma. The markets and kiosks were bustling with customers who knew that everything would be closed the next day, and honking drivers hurriedly brushed past pedestrians on their way home. Tearing ourselves away from the magic of the Jerusalem streets, we traveled to our hotel.
Although our hotel was bustling with Jewish students, we also shared the space with former U.S. President Jimmy Carter! He was in Israel to oversee the Palestinian elections, and his presence was a reminder that not all is well in the Holy Land. How could we forget when, overlooking the Gaza Strip, we saw a group of Palestinians youths bringing out their flag from the foot of the cliff? Our tour guide decided that that was our cue to leave, but their message was not so easily erased.
After being welcomed to the country by exciting sights and sounds, our trip continued to soar to new heights. We greeted the Sabbath by relaxing or singing at the Hebrew Union College or davening (praying) at the Kotel (Western Wall). Although many people have seen pictures of Jews before the Western Wall, nothing compares to feeling the cool stones that thousands of your ancestors have touched before you. After resting and partying on Saturday, we prepared to begin our tour in earnest. The Old City of Jerusalem was filled with amazing sights, including the burial place of King David, the still-populated Jewish Quarter and the last remaining piece of the ancient Temple, the Western Wall.
Walking through the ancient streets and learning the histories of the captures and recaptures of the city connected us to our ancestors, and this connection was only strengthened when we painfully remembered their suffering at the Yad Vashem Holocaust Center. The bizarre monuments and winding walkways made tangible the sheer incomprehensibility of the Holocaust. As we walked through a memorial showing an infinite number of candles burning through eternity which represent the 1.5 million Jewish children killed in the Shoah, we remembered the cruel sacrifices our people were forced to make, and we strengthened our resolve to hold onto the blessings that remain with us today. This resolution focused on Israel as we toured the Mount Herzl Military Cemetery and learned of the willing sacrifices 19,000 Israeli soldiers have made to secure the future of our people.
Having formed a strong bond between ourselves and Israel and her people, we spent the next several days familiarizing ourselves with the history of the land. We explored a cave and participated in an active archaeological dig at Tel Maresha in Beit Guvrin where I discovered pottery that had remained untouched for two millennia. We learned how Zionists had secretly manufactured bullets underneath a kibbutz at Ayalon. We walked through the ruins of Masada, the site of the last Jewish resistance against the Romans wherein legend holds that the Jews committed suicide rather than succumb to slavery under the Romans.
Of course, there's more to Israel than wars. For example, the Dead Sea is the most remarkable body of water I've ever encountered. Not only can anyone float in its extremely salty water, but you couldn't sink there if you tried! And, for those who had had enough of the moisturizing mud and freezing water, the Dead Sea hot tub was waiting just inside. Lounging in that magnificent water preceded our relaxation at the Bedouin encampment, where we ate a delicious foreign dinner and enjoyed sweet, hot tea before sleeping in a huge tent. Although the free-flowing germs and lack of heat contributed to general ill health for our bus, the stay at the Bedouin encampment was certainly interesting, especially as we capped off the visit with a bumpy camel ride.
Some of the most fascinating places were the small towns (extinct or thriving) that we visited only briefly. The ancient port of Caesaria was established when Jaffa was no longer sufficient for the Romans. Quaint Zichron Ya'acov sports adorable homes and the best gelato in the country as well as a history entwined with those of several very important Israeli men and women. Colorful Tzfat is the center of mystical Judaism and boasts some remarkable and gorgeous synagogues, one with a Torah scroll more than 500 years old. Tel Dan in the north is the ancient seat of power for the tribe of Dan near the Dan River, and Metulla is a modern seat of power on top of the Golan Heights overlooking both Lebanon and the Syrian Mount Hermon.
We also stayed on a kibbutz called Kfar Blum. Kibbutzim are socialist communes in Israel usually centered on agriculture and a major product. This kibbutz is famous for its Pastoral Hotel (in which we stayed), and it also provides chicken, milk and other products for itself and general sale. It must be that home-grown touch because the food at Kfar Blum was the best of the trip. We had fresh vegetables prepared various ways, crispy chicken and moist beef, inventive side dishes, colorful fruits, and sweet cakes -- all kosher!
We concluded our tour where we began: Tel Aviv. We had a conversation in Rabin Square near where Yitzchak Rabin was assassinated in 1995 and heard a moving speaker recount the formation of the country inside Independence Hall. For the first time, we were allowed to wander about by ourselves, and winding through the tourist shops on Nachalat Binyamin and exploring the trendy stores on Shenkin Street gave us a first-hand introduction to the western side of Israel. From ancient ruins to 50 percent off sales, we had run the gamut of Israel's cultural spectrum.
And those are only a couple of the many facets of Israel. In an area the size of New Jersey, one can find desert and snow, kosher restaurants and soaring churches, cities and tents, old and new... Israel has it all. The people of Israel are resilient and friendly, democratic and traditional, and excited about the future while respectful of the past. Visiting Israel was one of the most amazing experiences of my life, and I can't wait until I'm able to go back. If you haven't been, you should definitely start making arrangements -- it's a trip that will change your life. It certainly changed mine.
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