We have a confession to make. We are restaurant groupies. We make it our business to be the first to know when a new place opens, we check the health violations Web site for sheer pleasure and we revere chefs like celebrities.
So when we heard that one of our favorite local chefs, Sean Lawford, was opening his own restaurant, we immediately started to salivate. Lawford's resume includes two of the best restaurants in town, Bizou and Mas, but with their very different cuisines, we weren't sure exactly what to expect from Cassis. We just knew it would be delicious.
Its moniker was our first clue as to Lawford's inspiration. "Cassis" refers to a fishing village in southern France, as well as to a blackcurrant liqueur of the same name. An appropriate name, then, for a modern French bistro.
The menu abounds with staples of French home cooking: beef burgundy, duck confit, country pâté and steak frites. After three months' renovation, the aesthetic could be that of any of Charlottesville's many chic, trendy restaurants. We loved the contrast between the sleek booths and rustic brick walls painted with images from classic wine and pasta advertisements. Tiny candles glimmered in their votives while people competed for seats at the half moon-shaped bar, perfect for both mingling and checking out the action in the open kitchen. The vibe depends largely on where you sit. The front of house is more modern, with metal tables and giant glass windows looking out onto the street. We sat in the back, where enclosed, comfortable booths are perfect for a more intimate dinner.
The menu is highly focused on France, only rarely drawing inspiration from different sources. James' entrée was served with a creamy, golden parmesan risotto, which perfectly complemented the grilled venison. The wilted spinach side tasted like it had been sautéed with the venison -- the smoky grilled flavor permeated this normally demure vegetable. The venison, cooked to a perfect medium rare, was lightly cloaked with a slightly sweet and rich cassis glaze that tied all the elements of the dish together.
Ann decided to see how the kitchen interpreted steak frites, that classic duo of grilled beef and French fries. She was not disappointed in the slightest. Although not completely traditional -- the steak was a much finer cut than you would find in a Parisian bistro, and the side of caramelized leeks was superfluous -- it was absolutely stunning. The combination of charred beef and salty fries was ambrosial, and each element in this essentially simple dish was executed flawlessly.
We also enjoyed the appetizers -- they were lush and flavorful, perfectly whetting our appetites for the meal to come. The duck confit tart paired creamy chevre, rich duck and silken caramelized onions on a disc of flaky pastry. The bacon-wrapped pâté --another French classic
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