With Foxfields, beautiful weather and the beginning of summer vacation in sight, students, and especially us fourth years, are becoming less and less focused on schoolwork and more and more intent on getting out and having a good time. Many of Charlottesville's restaurants have spring fever as well. In the coming weeks you may see fresh vegetables, ripe fruits and lighter flavors and textures sprouting up on menus all over town. But with the bevy of choices out there, the challenge is finding restaurants that are fun and flavorful, but also fairly priced.
After changing ownership, revamping its menu, and adding an open kitchen and larger patio last month, downtown eatery Mono Loco looked poised to start spring on the right foot. Offering an array of Cuban and Latin inspired dishes, the restaurant combines the spicy flavors of the Caribbean with high-quality meats and produce.
Above all, however, Mono Loco is fun: the perfect place to get away from the drudgery of student life, all while sampling delicious cuisine and exotic drinks. The fun-focused atmosphere became clear the moment we slid into our seats at the curvaceous bar. Our initial disappointment at the wait for a table immediately melted away when we were greeted by one of the friendliest bartenders we've met in town.
We decided to start out with that ubiquitous appetizer, chips and salsa. Based on the advice of our friendly bartender, we were convinced to try the guacamole as well. Although pricey ($3 for a side), the condiment was well worth it, as we got to peek into the open kitchen and see the dish go from a fresh avocado to delicious chip-topper in less than a minute -- talk about fresh. Our other appetizer, calamari, was equally tasty. Although not a typical Cubano dish, this squid was crusted with masa (corn flour) and came with a spicy, refreshing avocado chipotle dipping sauce. Unlike other calamari we've tried, this one was light and not at all greasy. The breading was flavorful and slightly crunchy, a wonderful compliment to the chewy squid.
We liked that while the appetizers all were reasonably priced at a standard $4-$8, the entrees had a much larger price spectrum, letting you choose exactly how much to spend. We decided to try something from both ends of the menu: James went for the corn and pork tamale with rice, beans and mixed greens ($11), while Ann tried the coconut-rubbed salmon with saffron risotto and peach pico de gallo ($17). The tamale, served in the traditional cornhusk, was flavorful and filling. The pork was full of Latino spices, while the heartier cornbread-like base moderated the zesty pork with hearty corn tastes. The black beans, normally a side that's just an afterthought, could have been a main dish, filled with chunks of pork and adding a delicious smoky flavor to the dish.
The salmon also lived up to every cent of its price tag. Every element was perfectly executed -- the salmon was coated allover with coconut and cooked to a perfect medium-rare, the risotto was creamy and imbued with the scent and flavor of saffron -- details that are normally lost in the bustle of a busy, trendy watering hole. The pico de gallo was enlivened with the ripest of peaches which provided a fresh, not precious or forced, twist on the classic Latino dish.
The only disappointment came with dessert. After being out of the ice cream necessary for the Bananas Castro, we settled for the key lime pie with cayenne-accented crème fraîche. The spicy sauce was excellent with the cool custard, but the pie lacked that distinctive, sharp key lime flavor.
The food and drinks themselves are reason enough to visit Mono Loco, but no matter what you order, you can't help but have a good time. The friendly staff, creative menu, revamped setting and lively Latino music exude an energy that is contagious-- this spring, make sure you catch the fever.
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