For ten years, the signs have promised: the Corner Bodo's is "Coming Soon." Now, when students return to Charlottesville this fall, they will find that the improbable has finally happened. The third incarnation of the popular local bagel shop opened June 15, kicking off a series of 2005 Corner eatery launches and officially ending a decade of confusion, skepticism and April Fool's jokes, all spurred by the restaurant's stubbornly closed doors.
Less than a month after its opening, the Corner Bodo's has established itself as a social beehive for students and locals alike -- a hotspot for quick, unfussy food and a place to see and be seen.
The restaurant's modernistic black décor and glossy mahogany booths are nicely balanced by its youthful employees, whose efficient service and crowd control result in a well-oiled bagel machine. Meanwhile, yellow-hued murals -- painted by the owner's daughter -- wrap around the restaurant, lending a warmer tone to the otherwise sleek seating area.
Bodo's customers should come prepared to comply with the establishment's cash-only payment policy, and with enough cash to pay extra for sandwich toppings like tomato, sprouts and avocado. Beyond these quirks, however, there are few surprises on the culinary front: the New York-style water bagels -- the core of Bodo's' menu -- are, above all, simple and fresh, and, if you're lucky, still warm from the oven.
As per the Bodo's tradition, the Caesar salad is huge and garlicky, and the too-oily dressing is forgivable thanks to the trademark house-made croutons. Another option, the minty, lemony tabouli side salad, gets a nice crunch from plenty of cucumbers, which lend a sense of freshness to the dish.
With bagels ranging from plain to garlic to whole wheat cinnamon-raisin, as well as a huge selection of cream-cheese, meat, egg, seafood and vegan fillings, the menu is certainly adaptable to individual tastes. The classic lox bagel, with its almost frighteningly-neon pink fish laid on a generous bed of cream cheese, is a solid -- if tame -- choice.
For a bolder, authentic New York deli-style experience, try the spice-infused, black pepper-encrusted pastrami sandwich. Served on an everything bagel and topped with melted provolone cheese, the juicy ensemble is nicely rounded out with a tingly horseradish kick.
If the food is standard Bodo's fare, the service prompt and the venue clean, then, the real question becomes, Was it worth the wait? Does the Corner Bodo's live up to the hype it's been accumulating since those "Coming Soon" signs first appeared in 1995?
Since the original Bodo's opened in 1988, the local chain has attracted an almost cult-like following of hyper-enthusiastic diners. But for all its perks (including excellent location) the newest Bodo's restaurant is hardly the food mecca of Charlottesville. At best, the Corner Bodo's is a healthy alternative to fast food, with reasonable prices (but certainly not hours) to rival Littlejohn's.
Bodo's main draw, it seems, will lie in its inherent intrigue built over the last decade. After so many years of keeping Charlottesville waiting anxiously, however, one thing is clear: The elusive Corner Bodo's opening has resulted in the sweet payoff of booming business and happy customers.
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