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Hot spot Continental Divide puts space between it and the competition

I always feel like I've discovered a secret at Continental Divide. Located on West Main Street across from the Amtrak station, it's not exactly somewhere you'd stumble upon. The only sign that alerts passerby to its presence is a bright green neon "Get In Here!" in the window.

It's apparently no secret, though -- Continental Divide is one of the most popular casual dining spots in Charlottesville, serving southwestern cuisine in a warm, laid-back atmosphere. It's always packed, and they don't take reservations; unless you get there early, chances are you'll wait for a table. While you wait, you can try one of Continental Divide's margaritas, served on the rocks and made with your choice of the dozens of tequilas that the bar stocks, listed on a chalkboard near the bar.

The crowd at Continental Divide includes both students and locals, from the younger crowd to families. Service here is relaxed and friendly, and the bartender seems to know everyone that comes in. It's not the speediest place in town, but most of the patrons seem perfectly content to linger as long as possible. Roomy wooden booths, kitschy southwestern décor and black-and-white photographs on the walls make the restaurant cozy and comfortable. At the end of each booth, a bulletin board holds the wine list and daily specials, which always include a quesadilla, soup (except when the menu states that "it's too hot for soup") and several entrées and desserts.

The regular menu includes quite a few appetizers, from chips and guacamole to black bean and bison chili. The "Red Hot Blues," Continental Divide's take on nachos, are a great choice. Spicy blue corn tortilla chips are topped with Monterey Jack, goat cheese and red onions and served with extra-hot homemade salsa. Other starters include a Caesar salad and the restaurant's spicy hummus.

There aren't too many dinner choices, but that doesn't make it easier to decide. By only offering a few unique choices, Continental Divide has been able to perfect their dishes and turn out quality food time and time again. You'll find some standard Mexican restaurant items, like fajitas, made with chicken, steak or just vegetables and served with warm tortillas. The Santa Fe enchilada is another popular choice. Shredded chicken and cheese are sandwiched in a stack of flour tortillas, topped with more cheese and a spicy red sauce. Many of the dinner choices are served with black beans and rice and a pumpkin muffin -- not what you'd expect in a southwestern restaurant, but it's a welcome accompaniment.

Other menu items are a little more unorthodox, like the irresistible tuna tostada. A generous tuna steak, grilled perfectly rare, tops crispy fried flour tortillas and a black bean purée dotted with goat cheese. A sweet pepper coulis finishes it off. I was surprised at the balance of flavors in this dish; the tuna really stands up to the black beans and goat cheese.

The Yucatan chicken tacos, a special one night last week, were very simple but full of flavor. Spicy grilled chicken, shredded lettuce, cheddar cheese and a black bean salsa filled flour tortillas, with beans and rice on the side. Vegetarian options include a black bean burrito and a wild mushroom and goat cheese enchilada. Continental Divide is definitely a bargain, with most of the entrées in the $8-$12 range.

For dessert, if you can handle it after this meal, you can choose between brownie à la mode and the adobe pie. Layers of coffee and butter pecan ice cream in an Oreo cookie crust are topped with chocolate and caramel sauce; all the different flavors work well together. I find this dessert perfect.

It's certainly one of the most well-loved restaurants in Charlottesville, and Continental Divide fully deserves all the acclaim. Like the sign on the wall observes, Continental Divide is "Too Crowded, Too Small, Too Noisy," but that just adds to its charm. For an unbeatable southwestern meal and a great margarita in a laid-back atmosphere, Continental Divide should not be missed.

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