Serving expertly prepared Southeast Asian fare in a small and homey dining room, Monsoon is a delightful departure from the ordinary. Situated on West Market Street near the Downtown Mall, the unassuming house-turned-restaurant takes a new spin on Thai cuisine with its bright preparations and informal, welcoming atmosphere.
The building that houses Monsoon blends into the neighborhood around it, and the porch is overgrown with plants and vines. Only a small sign alerts you to the restaurant inside. The bones of the original house are intact, so eating at Monsoon is a lot like eating in someone's home. It's as if the chef has set up shop in the owner's kitchen and arranged some tables in the living room. American folk and pop art adorns the walls of the cozy and charming dining room with room for about 20. In good weather, more diners can sit outside on the large porch that is lit up with strands of colored lights.
The menu is fairly large for such a small kitchen, starting with an extensive array of appetizer choices. The vegetable firecracker rolls, oily and bland, were the one disappointing element of my meal. The steamed pork dumplings are a much better choice; they are seasoned very simply and cooked to perfection, served with a light soy dipping sauce. Other options include spring rolls and wonton soup. The appetizers range in price from $3 to $8 and are definitely large enough to share with a friend or two.
The dinner menu at Monsoon includes noodle and rice dishes as well as a broad selection of unique Southeast Asian curries. Diners can opt for white or brown rice and choose between tofu (fried or not), chicken, tilapia and shrimp for every entrée. Depending on the choice of meat, all dinner options range from $10 and $15, which is a steal considering the high quality of the food.
The Thai lemongrass and basil chicken was definitely the highlight of our meal. The tangy lemongrass is the perfect complement to the bright, lively basil in the sauce, which wakes up the chicken and vegetables but does not overpower them. The chewy, rich brown rice went perfectly with this light and fresh dish.
Salmon baked in rice paper is another unusual entrée choice. Served with a light sauce and broccoli, the fish was cooked well and wrapped in the crispy rice paper. It's a great choice if you're looking for something a little different than what you might find on a standard Thai menu.
The curries at Monsoon range from the simple yellow and green curries to more complex and unusual varieties, which can all be prepared with your desired level of spiciness. The yellow curry is mellow and sweet and not at all heavy. The Burmese ginger curry, with coconut milk and peanuts, is incredibly rich, sweet and indulgent; it's practically dessert.
If I weren't already convinced, the pad Thai dish proved to me that Monsoon really is an exceptional Thai restaurant. The noodles are not at all gummy or sticky, and the sauce tastes authentic and not too sweet. The crispy fried egg is delicious, and raw bean sprouts and crushed peanuts are perfect accompaniments. We ordered this dish with tofu, and I was very impressed with its flavor and texture.
What really make the dishes at Monsoon stand out are their amazing preparations. Whether you order seafood, chicken or tofu with your meal, everything is cooked perfectly. The vegetables in the dishes are crisp and green, and the servings are generous but not too large. You leave the restaurant feeling like you just ate a home-cooked Thai meal. In addition to the remarkable food, Monsoon offers a wide assortment of beer and wine, with whites and reds as well as several sake choices and a syrupy-sweet plum wine.
For dessert, you can choose ginger or green tea ice cream served with a waffle cookie and a generous sprinkle of cinnamon. The ginger is surprisingly pungent and spicy, while the green tea is more smooth and subtle. Neither is too sweet and each provides a perfect end to the meal.
Monsoon is a pleasant surprise and an excellent choice for a casual but delicious meal. The kitschy décor provides a humorous contrast to truly exceptional Thai cuisine and friendly, attentive service. Whether you sit in the cozy dining room or take advantage of the porch outside, Monsoon should not be missed.
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