In 2004, the movie "Sideways" was released, receiving critical acclaim, box office success and, eventually, five Oscar nominations. The film chronicles two friends who take a week-long trip to the Santa Ynez wine country in California for an extended bachelor party. Miles, played by Paul Giamatti , is a quintessential wine snob: He quaffs wine, tastes it carefully and finds amusing ways to describe it. "There's just like the faintest soupçon of, like, asparagus and just a flutter of a -- like a nutty Edam cheese," he says at one point.
Miles loves Pinot Noir and detests Merlot. In one comical scene, Miles experiences a panic attack and yells that he will not drink Merlot, even if it will impress two female guests.
"Sideways" was released on the cusp of a wine revolution taking place around the world, particularly in America. In the past 10 to 15 years, Americans have gone from having a lukewarm interest in wine to becoming the largest consumer base for wine in the world.Additionally, compared to 30 years ago, when the United States had only a few boutique vineyards that did not garner international notice, regions in California, Oregon and Washington are now becoming recognized around the world for their quality vineyards. By 2008, the United States will have one of the largest amounts of land under vines anywhere in the world. In short, the United States is new to making wine and even newer to drinking it.
In the months following the release of "Sideways," the wine industry reported that Pinot Noir sales in America skyrocketed by 20 percent, while those of Merlot plummeted. In a study called "The Sideways Effect," researchers concluded that because of a lack of alternative sources, American consumers were making choices purely based on what wine snobs in movies were drinking. Although this phenomenon is not surprising, it is regrettable because there are many reasons to educate oneself properly.
First and foremost, the world of wine is massive and full of various tasting experiences. Almost every country in the world produces wine that displays different characteristics, resulting from the use of diverse techniques. For me, studying wine has been a fun and interesting way to learn about world geography, history and culture.
Second, in an age when fashion often unfairly dictates the price of consumer products, it pays to know how to spot top wines at great values. I have taken advice from wine publications and retailers on buying high-priced wines ($25 and up) that were simply not worth the money. If you are an educated wine buyer, there is absolutely no reason to pay more than $25 for a bottle of quality wine. I will try and rate wines in this column ranging from $8 to $20. After all, if you are like me, you are a student on a budget.
Third, when buying wine in countries such as France, Spain, Germany and Italy, it is requisite that you be familiar with the region's laws, styles and customs. With few exceptions, France, Spain and Italy do not specify the variety of grape on labels. Instead, most European countries only list the region or village from which the wine originated. It is expected that a consumer knows the corresponding region or village and its traditional grape variety. If a bottle of French wine is labeled "Volnay," for example, you can count on the fact that by law, the wine was made in Burgundy from Pinot Noir, the region's traditional and celebrated grape. Likewise, if you buy a Riesling labeled "Auslese," you can count on the fact that the wine was harvested late, a practice that allows for a sweeter and more concentrated taste. Finally, countries like France, Italy and Spain use regional terms such as Grand Cru, Cuvee and Reserve to signify age, the amount of time a wine has been aged in oak barrels or the degree of quality. Thus, knowing terminology not only helps to identify value but is also necessary to know precisely what you are buying.
Fourth, because it involves experiencing different cultures and debating opinions, wine is a great way to begin conversation. In fact, many investment banks, law firms and other businesses insist that employees attend wine seminars so they can better communicate with or impress potential clients. Although conversing about wine is sometimes unfairly characterized as snobbery, as in "Sideways," it should be a way of bringing people together in social and business environments.
Finally, an education in wine allows you, the buyer, to enjoy the literal and figurative fruits of your labor. Even if you are spending $10, it should be to purchase something of genuine quality and enjoyment.
Each week, I will rate a wine in this column and provide a background of its region. By joining me in examining each bottle's uniqueness and in accessing its quality, you will learn immediately how to become a connoisseur, a smart buyer and a traveler of the world through a wine glass.
Jeff Katra is a Cavalier Daily wine columnist. His column runs biweekly on Wednesdays
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