Dow's Fine Tawny Porto Price: $12.99
Grade: A-
In 1703, two English merchants, while traversing the countryside of Northern Portugal, came upon a ramshackle monastery. Both peripatetic businessmen were in search of Portuguese wine that would meet the strict requirements imposed by their home country. Desiring not to enrich their imperial rival, the British had banned the importation of French wine in 1678 and had subsequently signed a trade agreement with Portugal in 1703 whereby both countries would increase mutual commerce.
Although in 1703 Portugal had an aspiring market that offered cheap prices and quality products, its wine was very thin and dilute. These attributes made it nearly impossible for the wine to be transported across the Bay of Biscay from Portugal to England without the cargo succumbing to oxidation or bacterial taint. To make the importation of Portuguese wine cost-effective, new types of products had to be developed or found.
The merchants were greeted by a gnarled abbot who led them into a cellar filled with sizable oak casks. He opened one of the barrels and offered samples to both travelers. What they tasted was a Portuguese wine high in alcohol and extremely viscous, two attributes that could counter the negative effects of extended maritime transportation. Additionally, the wine had a sweet, smooth taste compared to the usual acidic character of most Portuguese wines. The merchants had found their marketable wine! When asked to divulge the secret of how the exceptional wine was cultivated, the abbot whispered, "I just poured a dram of brandy into the barrel before fermentation ended."
The fact that the British have a legend for how they discovered port demonstrates the almost spiritual fervor they have for the liqueur. In recent years, port has become a European phenomenon as well. Whether in London, Paris, Madrid or Rome, you can be sure port will be on the menu as either an aperitif or an after-dinner drink. Yet, in America, port is still relatively unknown. Although many stores sell the liqueur, few restaurants have it on their menus (at least when compared to Europe) and even fewer people have tried it.
All good port comes from Portugal. Never buy it from any other country. By law, Portuguese port will always be labeled as "porto" or "oporto." Look for the preceding terms when buying. The liqueur takes its name from the Portuguese city of Porto, located at the mouth of the Douro River on the northwest coast of the country. Once a shipping entrepôt of the Portuguese empire, Porto coalesces the wanderlust and adventure of its heyday with its beautiful coastal scenery and numerous gondola boats.
Port can be made from 80 different indigenous grapes, the main ones being Tinta Roriz (called Tempranillo in Spain), Touriga Nacional (Portugal's star grape), Touriga Franca, Tinta Cao and Tinta Barroca. As the aforementioned abbot instructed, before the fermentation process ceases, brandy or grape-based liquor is added into the mix to increase the wine's alcohol level and to add viscosity. The result is a sweet and smooth drink that is perfect to cap a hearty meal, complement a dessert or even induce hunger beforehand.
Port has a long but easy hierarchy of quality. The more expensive varieties are distinguished by their age and whether the grapes came from a quinta (single vineyard). In ascending order (lowest to highest), Port is categorized as Ruby, Reserve Ruby, Tawny, Reserve Tawny, Tawny with Indication of Age (20 Year Tawny Port), Crusted, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), Colheita, Vintage (exact date on bottle -- 1977) and Single Quinta Vintage. White Port, which is made from juice that has not been in contact with red grape skins, has become a cheap ($5) but decent option.
Dow's Tawny Porto is a tremendous value selection. The nose has a strong raisin and alcohol component with traces of prune, cinnamon, caramel and red fruit. The palate is explosive with extraordinary flavors of toffee, raisin, coffee, prune, fig, plum and nutmeg. Hints of cinnamon, strawberry, nuts and even apples are also present. Port is usually corked with a removable stopper. After seven to 10 days, it will begin to lose its robust character.
The legend of how two wandering merchants stumbled upon port while traveling through the thickets of destiny has never been corroborated. Nevertheless, we can still enjoy the fruits of their journey. Exploring the world of wine should take you places you haven't been. Tasting port for the first time will be a new and satisfying adventure. Even if you have tried port and disliked it, sample it again with an eye and palate for new tastes and experiences. Imagine that the United States placed a wine embargo on France, Australia, Spain and Italy. Try to find something totally novel. Look beyond your safe predilections and step into the shoes of those British merchants. You just may find something of great value hidden in a cellar.
Jeff's column runs biweekly Wednesdays. He can be reached at katra@cavalierdaily.com.
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