Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Calif.)
Price: $7
Grade: D
Woodbridge is the wine most likely to be found at a public event. It is available at weddings, formals, parties, get-togethers and even funerals. Indeed, wherever alcohol is being served, Woodbridge is lurking in the shadows. There are two reasons for this phenomenon. First, Woodbridge is cheap. I purchased this bottle at Harris Teeter for $7. Second, and more importantly, Woodbridge is cultivated to have a smooth taste. In theory, its weak flavor assures it will be accepted by a broad range of people with differing tastes.
Woodbridge perfectly represents a larger problem in the world of wine. Before the 1970s, when America entered the international wine scene, wine enthusiasts were able to celebrate diversity. Countries proudly made wine indicative of their own traditions and environmental factors. Today, if a region or country specializes in a particular grape, the probable reason is that the area has positive environmental attributes that serve the grape's cultivation. To use my stock example, Pinot Noir became traditional to Burgundy, France, because the region's climate, soil and sloping hills are very amenable to its temperamental production.
Another attribute that added to the international diversity of wine was differing viticulture practices by region, and in some cases, even by vineyard. There was a time when winemakers prided themselves on making distinctive wines that fit the culinary needs and unique tastes of the region. Because traditional Burgundian cooking includes heavy gravies and potent sauces, vintners from the region cultivated a gamey character in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, an attribute that accentuated the local cuisine. Beyond Burgundy, most every wine region of the world tailored its wine to serve environmental and cultural realities. Just as one could backpack through Europe and be amazed by the subtle differences between German, French and Spanish architecture, so could a wine enthusiast travel the world and enjoy a plethora of tasting experiences.
It was a bittersweet moment when the United States took an interest in both California and international wines. Given America's vogue culture, it is not surprising that within a few decades, America went from having little interest in wine to being the world's largest consumer. Until recently, Europe was by far the largest consumer of wine in the world. Because European culture recognized regional diversity and quality, vintners continued to produce distinctive wine. America's odyssey into the wine market gave way to a profound change. Given their inexperience with quality, American customers did not want diversity or distinctive tastes. On the contrary, as is expected from fast food chains, Americans wanted low prices and consistency. The sad fact of this wine homogenization is that American and European vineyards, particularly in Bordeaux, France, have initiated pervasive changes in an effort to make drab consistent wine to serve American tastes. One of these unfortunate measures is the purchase of small boutique or family-owned vineyards by major corporations that intend to produce mass-marketed wine.
The Woodbridge 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon from California is a telling example of a homogenized market in which wine is concocted to be smooth and innocuous. Upon tasting, I struggled to find anything I could describe as "fruit." The dominant aromas from this wine are alcohol, yeast and sawdust. The sawdust smell is a quick indication that this wine probably did not spend much -- if any -- time in an oak barrel. Instead, wooden rods or an assortment of "oak chips" were most likely dipped in the wine until it absorbed a wood taste. If that is the case, we can consider ourselves lucky; I have heard rumors that California is now using "wood essence," a chemical compound that tastes like oak. The only fruit I was able to extract was a general red berry character -- maybe strawberry. The palate is even worse. The tasting notes are sour blackberry and burnt jam. It was as if I placed a whole package of Sour Patch Kids in my mouth -- a package that was left in an ashtray for a few days.
Cheap wine does not have to be this awful. California is capable of making quality wine. Given California's hot climate, growers are particularly adept at making Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which are thick-skinned and amenable to drier conditions. This Woodbridge wine shows almost no traditional attributes of Cabernet Sauvignon, which should display complex notes of blackberries, blueberries, incense and a hint of red berries.
The mantra of this column is that you don't have to spend exorbitant amounts of money to experience fine wine. Conversely, even if you are spending $10 or less, you do not have to stomach a wine like Woodbridge. If we stop buying and drinking intolerable sludge, and instead embrace diversity and new tasting experiences, we may find ourselves on the cusp of a new world in which weddings, parties or get-togethers are no longer haunted by the Woodbridge albatross.
Jeff's column runs biweekly Wednesday. He can be reached at katra@cavalierdaily.com.
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