Geyser Peak Merlot (2004) California Price: 15.99
Grade: A-
To rate a Merlot from California and not mention the movie "Sideways" would be blasphemy. In a now famous scene, the wine snob protagonist named Miles exclaims to his friend, "I am not drinking any f****** Merlot," even if it would impress two ladies waiting for them in a nearby restaurant. Miles' aversion for Merlot soon inspired moviegoers interested in wine to lambaste the varietal among their friends and opt for the chic choice of Pinot Noir. Merlot sales dropped significantly after the movie's premiere, demonstrating that wine drinkers were now accepting wine education from Hollywood. But the question remains: Where does this recent dislike of Merlot come from in the wine industry?
Here is the answer: Although Merlot is popular as a single varietal in the United States, it is almost exclusively used as a mixing agent in Europe. In Bordeaux, France, for instance, vintners take advantage of Merlot's smooth, innocuous character to balance the strong and sometimes astringent character of Cabernet Sauvignon. A mix of both grapes makes up for each of their individual shortcomings. In the U.S., however, Merlot is sold in its own right. On one hand, the palatable and smooth character of Merlot makes it a popular choice among American wine drinkers. On the other hand, Merlot by itself does not have the viscosity or haunting flavors that define wine greatness. Taken out of its traditional context as a mixer, Merlot cannot shine.
The Geyser Peak Winery is in the Alexander Valley, located in the famous Sonoma County, Calif. California Merlot benefits from the use of more American oak, which differs in many ways from the French oak used in Europe. Unlike French oak barrels, which are made from a whole block of wood, American oak barrels are made by splitting blocks of wood apart, an action that allows sap to run on the wood and bestows highly concentrated coconut and vanilla flavors on wine. The strong oakiness for which California is known gives a stronger character to the otherwise bland Merlot varietal.
The Geyser Peak Merlot hits the nose immediately with vanilla, coconut, alcohol, cherry and even hints of raspberry and strawberry. The palate is a heavy concoction of oak, vanilla and red cherries with hints of black cherries and strawberries. The strong oak presence takes what should be a medium-bodied wine and makes it full-bodied. One could easily pair this Merlot with a blackened steak or a Cajun dish.
Jeff's column ran biweekly Wednesdays. He can be reached at jkatra@cavalierdaily.com.
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