Over the past few weeks, I have been delighted to receive questions about wine from friends, avid readers and passersby. So, I devoted this week’s column to answering some of those questions. Onward to the inquiries!
What does “Meritage” mean?
Many of you probably have seen this word on American wine labels. It is a combination of the words “merit” and “heritage,” of which its name reflects. Many people mispronounce this term “meritaj.” Just remember that it is pronounced like “heritage.”
In 1988, Californian vinters wanted to begin marketing a wine that was made from a combination of at least three of the five grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Bordeaux, France pioneered these blends and became the most recognizable wine region in the world for its luscious, velvety and complex wines. The idea behind blending grapes is that you can add the best attributes of each varietal into the mix while covering up each grape’s shortcomings. Bordeaux vintners combine Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Malbec, which are all thick, ink-like grapes with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, both of which are smooth, aromatic and fruity, to produce a variety of both red and white wines. Bordeaux wine, which is the result of a group effort, makes several blends, all full-bodied and balanced with blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, tannin, vanilla, oak and incense notes.
It is easy to understand why California wanted to follow this style. The problem was that Bordeaux owned the rights to use “Bordeaux” and all other variations thereof on wine labels. How then could California market its own Bordeaux-style wine to consumers? Instead of listing the blended grapes on the label, some wine growers decided to market their wines with a word that would communicate to consumers that the wine was made of some or all of the grapes in a traditional Bordeaux blend. After a naming contest, the association decided on “meritage” as the moniker of its high quality wine.
Today, those producers wishing to use “meritage” on their label must pay an annual fee. Meritage wines are made everywhere in the United States. The term has inspired a whole new set of free terms like “Vintner’s Reserve” or “Estate Select.”
What is “bottle shock?”
Bottle shock, also known as bottle sickness, is a temporary condition that often occurs after a wine is originally bottled, and is later, shaken, whether while being transported or improperly stored. Wine suffering from this ailment often tastes reductive or bland because of a disordering of flavors. Depending on the degree of bottle shock, it can take anywhere from a few days to a month for the problem to dissipate.
To avoid it, handle your wine with care and store it in a dark place between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
How do winemakers get flavors and aromas into the wine?
When people discuss wine, I often hear them say that it smells or tastes like raspberries, apricots, pepper, smoke, petrol or various other flavor combinations. These flavors and aromas however, are not technically “added” to the wine. Rather, these terms describe the intrinsic properties of the grape included and any flavor or aroma imparted by aging in oak barrels. In other words, there is no other fruit juice in wine except for grape juice. Likewise, there actually is not pepper, tobacco, petrol or leather in wine. These only are descriptions of what the wine tastes like.
What is the difference between French and American oak?
Great question! The oaks are used to create the barrels that serve to store and age the wine. Two main factors lead to dramatic differences in the oaks: location of the tree and how each is split. French oak is produced from wood harvested in central France, usually from the Burgundy region. The wood is split from the log in a way that ensures less tree sap will be on the surface when the barrel is toasted. The barrel is toasted to caramelize any form of sugar that is located on the outside of it. French oak imparts flavors of slight vanilla, cedar and incense. American white oak, on the other hand, is harvested in the United States, usually from places like Virginia and Ohio. Americans split oak so that much of the trees’ sap runs onto the surface of the wood. Additionally, American oak has bigger pores, which again increases the amount of sap. When the wood is toasted, the sap caramelizes into strong vanilla, coconut and hazelnut flavors. American oak predominantly is used in regions like California, Australia and South America, while French oak is the choice of European winemakers. The type of tree used to store and age wine has a tremendous influence, its storage place ultimately reflecting its final taste.
Any other questions? Please contact me via e-mail.
Jeff’s column runs biweekly Wednesdays. He can be reached at j.katra@cavalierdaily.com.
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