Ahh, la vida Valenciana. Lounging on the beach by day, discovering new dives by night. These first eight weeks studying abroad in Spain have been some of the best of my college career - and mainly for reasons outside the classroom. Of course, Valencia's proximity to the beach and penchant for wild nightlife were two large non-academic factors in making my decision about where to go abroad, but I've also got to admit that my stomach helped lead me in the right direction.
A large part of Spanish culture revolves around the ritual of food and drink. One of the first aspects of Valencian life presented to our group at orientation was that native Spaniards have a bite to eat in one hand and a glass in another during most hours of the day. In stark contrast to the Americas, eating in Spain is a drawn-out spectacle rather than a means of arranging quick get-togethers with family and friends. Long hours are spent feasting around the dining room table on multiple-course lunches and dinners or welcoming in the weekend outside one of the many local cervecerias with a beer ... or three. The Spanish dine at 9 in the morning, 2 in the afternoon and 10 at night - with a siesta and perhaps some light tapas in between. It's a schedule that one could certainly get used to following.
My friend and I are staying with a host family, and our room and board agreement means we get three meals a day at home, cooked courtesy of our madre, Rosario. Meals have been an interesting mix of familiar, foreign, good, bad and ugly. Breakfast is almost non-existent, as Spaniards - like most Europeans - like to start off their day on a light note. Instead of heaps of French toast and eggs and bacon, we've been greeted with pre-packaged croissants and muffins, usually served with jelly and a glass of coffee or orange juice - although recently, we finally cracked and went out-of-pocket for some cereal.
Lunch is a more tantalizing affair. When eaten at home, it consists of salad, fresh bread and either a rice or grain dish. One of the best lunches eaten en la casa so far has been paella, a well-known international dish and Valencian specialty that consists of slow-cooked rice, vegetables and either chicken or seafood - in this case, the chicken.
But if comida para llevar - food on the run - is needed, a bocadillo is standard fare. These almost-foot-long sub sandwiches can be packed with anything from sausage to a potato and onion omelet, both traditional standbys in the Spanish kitchen.
Dinner has been by far the most adventurous meal. Thin pan-fried chicken cutlets in an alfredo sauce was a highlight, while a tuna omelet we had was probably one of the worst foods I've ever had the displeasure of tasting. A hearty chicken stew - chock full of potatoes, carrots and green beans - has been my favorite meal thus far. But last night's tasteless fish fry proved that I shouldn't get my hopes up for consistent delicacies just yet. Bread is served with every dinner, and fruit is brought out for dessert - a futile attempt at keeping the body healthy before a night out begins.
I am living in a city full of museum masterpieces, but finding the epicurean works of art requires a little more exploration - and a few extra Euros. Whether I am eating en la casa or sampling one of the city's many restaurants, my main goal is to take advantage of my time here by exploring the city's food culture. Valencia is a cosmopolitan bundle of history, adventure, light and beauty, but perhaps sometimes there is nothing better than to kick back and let the food do all of the city's talking.
David's column runs biweekly Fridays. He can be reached at d.replogle@cavalierdaily.com.
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